Perfect in every detail: the new Line of Moulds with Luca Borgioli

In view of the launch of the new collection of molds in collaboration with Luca Borgioli, we at Essence Easy Pastry Lab have decided to create a small guide on Pate a Choux to help you make perfect Eclairs and Bigne and for all those who purchase even just one product from the line, a recipe book will arrive as a gift with 3 delicious alternatives created by our PastryChef Marco De Donno for the preparation of your desserts: Mini Eclairs with Yogurt, Strawberry and Mint, Profiteroles with Dark Chocolate and Modern Glaze, and one last surprise recipe!

We leave you with a little preview of our guide.

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If you want to know more about the world of Pate à Choux, we invite you to follow Luca Borgioli, who brings a new vision of this product to the world of Italian Pastry by developing a new technique with which it is possible to easily create perfect eclairs and bigne that you can discover in his classroom or online courses!

Origins of Choux Pastry

Pâte à choux (choux pastry) is a one-of-a-kind preparation: it is a pastry that is first cooked in a pan and then cooked again in the oven , a characteristic that gives it the ability to swell, forming an internal cavity perfect for being stuffed.

Its origins date back to the 16th century , at the court of Caterina de' Medici . It is said that a Tuscan chef in her service, named Panterelli , invented a pasta that initially took the name of Panterelli pasta . Later, during the 17th century, this recipe was perfected by other chefs, including Jean Avice , who transformed it into a version closer to the modern one, used to make the first "choux" (from the French, "cabbages", due to the shape similar to a miniature cabbage that they take on during cooking).

In the 19th century, chef Marie-Antoine Carême , a seminal figure in French gastronomy, further refined pâte à choux, establishing proportions and techniques that form the basis of modern versions.

History of the cream puff

The bignè , as we know it today, was born from the use of pâte à choux. The term “bignè” probably derives from the French beignet , which indicated a fried or baked dough.

Over time, pâte à choux has given rise to a wide variety of desserts and preparations, including:

• Classic cream puffs , filled with custard or chantilly cream.
• Profiteroles , filled and covered in melted chocolate.
• The éclair , with an elongated and frosted shape.
• The religieuse , two overlapping cream puffs decorated with icing and cream.

In Italy, the bignè has found a wide diffusion in regional traditions, especially on the occasion of the feast of San Giuseppe , where it is often fried and filled with cream, becoming the zeppolone or the bignè di San Giuseppe .

Conclusion

Pâte à choux represents one of the most elegant expressions of European pastry making, the result of centuries of evolution and the mastery of great chefs. Even today, it is an essential base for every professional pastry chef.

Main ingredients and characteristics

Egg
Eggs are the functional heart of pâte à choux : without them there would be no typical internal cavity, no external crunchiness, no overall lightness. They act as a leavening, binding, structuring and emulsifying agent , making this dough a perfect chemical balance.
Main roles of eggs in pâte à choux

1. Hydration and structure

• Eggs are about 75% water , which adds moisture to the dough . During baking, this water evaporates and creates steam , the main driver of the physical leavening of the pâte à choux (it does not contain baking powder).
• The proteins present (ovalbumin, ovotransferrin, etc.) coagulate with heat , forming a solid structure that supports the swelling without collapsing.

2. Emulsion and homogeneity

• The egg yolk , rich in lecithin , has a powerful emulsifying action : it stabilizes the fat-water mixture, combining the melted butter and water with the flour, creating a smooth and homogeneous dough.
• This is essential for the correct consistency of the pâte à choux: too dry = little growth; too liquid = loss of shape.

3. Elasticity and plasticity

• Eggs give the dough a malleable and plastic consistency . It is thanks to this property that it can be dressed precisely with the piping bag and maintain its shape during cooking.

4. Color and flavor

• The yolk provides golden color and a rich aroma , typical of well-made products such as cream puffs, éclairs or Paris-Brest.

Flour

Flour in choux pastry is another key ingredient, whose function goes far beyond that of "filler": it is responsible for the structure , consistency and ability of the dough to rise during baking.
Main roles of flour in choux pastry

1. Structure formation (via starch and gluten)

• Starch, in the presence of hot water (the roux phase), gelatinizes : it absorbs liquid, swells and becomes viscous. This creates a coherent and dense dough, which can retain air and steam.
• Proteins (glutenin and gliadin) form gluten during mixing: they give elasticity and structural strength to the dough.
• Gluten resists the internal pressure of steam during cooking, allowing the dough to expand without breaking .

2. Absorption of fat and moisture

• The flour absorbs the melted butter and some of the water in the hot batter (roux) stage.
• This allows for the production of a homogeneous mass , which can then gradually accommodate the eggs without separation.

3. Stabilization during cooking

• In the oven, the starch continues to gelatinize and the gluten coagulates , solidifying the structure that had been inflated by the steam. This allows the typical internal cavity of the cream puff to be maintained.

Waterfall

The water in pâte à choux, while seemingly a simple ingredient, performs a series of crucial chemical-physical functions, so much so that it is considered an indirect structuring and leavening agent. Without the correct amount and management of water, the dough would not develop correctly.

Functions of water in pâte à choux

1. Thermal and dispersion vehicle

• During the initial phase on the stove (roux), the water serves to melt the butter and heat the entire system evenly.
• It creates a fluid environment that allows the starches in the flour to hydrate and swell .

2. Activation of starch gelatinization

• At temperatures above 60–70 °C , the starch in flour gelatinizes only in the presence of water: the molecules absorb water and swell, forming a viscous, cohesive mass .
• This phenomenon is essential to obtain a compact but plastic pâte à choux , capable of incorporating eggs later.

3. Responsible for physical leavening (water vapor)

• Water is the primary leavening agent in pâte à choux.
• In the oven, the water present (both as an ingredient and trapped in the eggs) evaporates and forms high-pressure steam .
• This steam expands the dough until the protein and starch structure sets, creating the characteristic internal cavity .

4. Influence on the consistency of the dough

• The amount of water determines how thick or thin the dough will be after cooking on the stove.
• A dough that is too dry (not enough water) → difficult to mix, little development during cooking.
• A dough that is too liquid (too much water or weak flour) → loss of shape, weak structure.

Butter

Butter , in pâte à choux , is an essential ingredient, not only for the final flavor and texture, but also for its technical functionality during processing and cooking. From a chemical and physical point of view, butter is a structuring, emulsifying, flavoring and partially waterproofing agent.
Main functions of butter in pâte à choux

1. Initial emulsion and dough consistency

• The butter is melted in boiling water , forming a dispersion of fat which, once combined with the flour, allows for uniform gelatinization of the starches.
• Its presence makes the dough smooth, elastic and stable , facilitating the subsequent incorporation of the eggs.

2. Dough holding and plasticity

• The fat surrounds the starch and gluten molecules, limiting their excessive development and contributing to a more malleable , less tenacious dough.
• This allows for better workability and better performance when dressing with a piping bag.

3. Crispyness and waterproofing

• While cooking, the butter:
• It promotes the formation of a thin, crunchy crust .
• It makes the external surface drier , thanks to the waterproofing effect of the greases.
• This contributes to the classic contrast between the crunchy crust and the hollow interior of the choux pastry.

4. Taste and smell

• Butter provides a unique aromatic note , due to the volatile compounds that develop during cooking (e.g. lactones, aldehydes, fatty acids).
• A choux pastry with good butter will have a rounded and "buttery" aftertaste , without the need for additional flavourings.

Milk

The use of milk in pâte à choux represents a very interesting technical variation , often adopted in pastry making to obtain specific characteristics in the crust and in the taste of the final product.

Milk can totally or partially replace water , modifying the physical-chemical properties of the dough . Let's see in detail its composition and its impact on pâte à choux.

Functions of milk in pâte à choux

1. Hydration and gelatinization

• Like water, milk hydrates the flour and allows the starch to gelatinize during the cooking phase.
• However, lactose (non-fermentable sugar) contributes to the coloration of the crust thanks to the Maillard reaction , rather than caramelization.

2. Color and crunchiness

• The lactose and milk proteins react during cooking to form a crust that is more golden, aromatic and fragrant than that produced with water alone.
• However, the crust also turns out more tender and less dry , therefore less crunchy over time.

3. Increased aroma

• The fats and proteins in milk enrich the flavour of the dough, making it fuller and rounder .
• This is particularly appreciated in cream puffs filled with delicate creams, choux craquelin or éclairs.

4. Influence on the structure

• Caseins and other milk solids interfere slightly with the coagulation of egg proteins , and can slow the steam push .
• For this reason, a pâte à choux prepared only with milk may develop less internal cavity and have a more moderate inflation .

 

When to use milk, water or a mix?

Liquid	Effect on the pâte à choux
Only water	Maximum push in the oven, light and dry structure, crunchy.
Only milk	Rich flavor, thin golden crust, but less development and cavity.
Half milk/half water	Balance between development, browning, taste and crunchiness.

Many pastry chefs choose a 50/50 mix to obtain the best compromise between appearance, taste and technical yield .

Mechanism of the Leavening of Pate a Choux

The leavening mechanism of pâte à choux is a refined example of physical and chemical-thermal leavening , completely free of yeasts or chemical leavening agents such as bicarbonate or powders. The growth of the dough occurs exclusively thanks to the water vapor that forms during cooking, in combination with the protein-starch structure that allows it to be maintained.

Cooking dynamics and development

Phase 1 – Entry into the oven

• The internal moisture (from water, butter and eggs) begins to evaporate rapidly.
• The steam, initially retained by the still soft but cohesive structure of the dough, creates a thrust upwards and outwards.

Phase 2 – Expansion

• The dough swells quickly, forming the typical internal cavity.
• The elasticity provided by the gluten in the flour and the partial coagulation of the egg proteins allow the internal pressure to be retained without collapsing.

Phase 3 – Coagulation and fixing of the structure

• When the temperature exceeds 70–80 °C, the egg proteins coagulate and the starch gelatinizes completely.
• This fixes the expanded shape, solidifying the internal cavity.

Phase 4 – Drying

• In the final part of cooking, the crust dries and hardens, thanks to the migration of residual moisture towards the outside.
• The crispiness of the crust depends on this phase and the amount of water present in the dough.

 

 

Cooking and Tips

Cooking the pâte à choux is a delicate and crucial step to obtain well-swollen choux buns, with an internal cavity and a crispy crust. The type of oven used has a significant impact on the final result, as it affects:

• The amount and speed of steam formation
• Heat distribution
• The crispness and dryness of the crust
• The structural stability of the finished product

The two recommended cooking methods are in a static and fan oven:

STATIC OVEN (upper and lower heating elements, without ventilation)

 Advantages

• Softer and more uniform heat, ideal for the first phase of vertical development .
• Lower risk of premature crusting (which would hinder leavening).
• More controllable in terms of temperature and residual humidity.

 Disadvantages

• Less final drying : Can make the crust softer and moister.
• It requires longer cooking times.

FAN OVEN (forced convection)

 Advantages

• Faster and drier cooking , thanks to the flow of hot air.
• It promotes a crispier crust .
• Excellent for multiple productions on multiple trays, thanks to the good heat circulation.

 Disadvantages

• Ventilation can dry out the surface too quickly , preventing the choux pastry from rising properly.
• Risk of deformation if the crust forms too quickly.

Basic Pate a Choux Recipe

Procedure

Ingredients	Dosage for 1kg of dough
Flour (14 to 16% protein)	170g
Waterfall	180g
Milk	160g
Butter (melted)	100g
Butter (soft)	70g
Salt	3g
Sugar	5g
Egg	310g

 

Phase 1 - pre-cooking:

- Bring water, milk, butter (100 g), salt and sugar to the boil.

- Add the flour all at once away from the heat and mix vigorously until the mixture becomes smooth.

- Cool to 50-55 degrees C.

Phase 2 - planetary:

- Place the lukewarm dough into the mixer (leaf).

- Add soft butter in pieces.

- Incorporate the eggs little by little until you obtain a smooth and soft consistency.

Let cool to around 20 degrees and dress in the silicone mold for pate a choux. Blast chill, unmold and store at negative temperature. Before cooking, arrange our eclairs or our bigne on a baking tray with a micro-perforated mat, let defrost and cook in a static oven at 160-180 degrees and in a fan oven at 130-140. Each oven, whether professional or domestic, has its own characteristics, therefore to always obtain a perfect result it is necessary to establish the temperature based on your oven.

A little preview of the recipes you will receive with the launch promo!

Strawberry, Yogurt and Mint Eclair Mignon

Profiteroles with Sao Tome 71% Dark Chocolate and Modern Dark Chocolate Glaze